Ungaro’s bewitching hours

Emanuel Ungaro (by Giles Deacon): A/W 2011/12
Cinq à Sept
Directed by Ruth Hogben

Much has been made of Emanuel Ungaro’s quote, “I dress mistresses, not wives,” in light of Giles Deacon’s A/W 2011/12 collection, his second for the label. The saucy lace pieces often left little to the imagination and Deacon is generally deemed to have brought sexy back to the embattled house.

All of which is pertinent in light of the fashion short for the collection, launched this week, a collaboration between the fashion house, SHOWstudio and Love; the film is directed by SHOWstudio’s Ruth Hogben and styled by Love’s Katie Grand.

The film’s title, Cinq à Sept, refers to the bewitching hours of 5–7pm, which in French lore are the hours traditionally reserved for visiting mistresses. This film, however, according to SHOWstudio, is “a resolutely British re-interpretation of the fine French art of seduction,” and features tousle-tressed ladies loitering with intent on the streets of London. These women seem less kept  than intent on making their keep, if you will.

They strut, they gyrate, they scowl, they smoke, they eye each other off, they stake their territory. All to a wonderful soundtrack that is both jarring and discordant. (Oddly, the music has not been credited.)

My only concern is those girls hanging out on London streets in the middle of winter in just a hint of lace. They’ll catch their deaths…


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